My Trip to an Island in Malta Helped Me Rule Out Living There: Gozo

Although I’m happy living in Ireland, I sometimes long for warmer weather and a slower pace of life.

So when I travel, I’m always wondering if my destination could become more than a vacation spot — maybe a place to retire to someday.

In 2023, I spent a month seeing if Malta could be a potential forever home. Unfortunately, it wasn’t a match for me, but it had so much going for it that I decided to try its charming sister island, Gozo.

Gozo lies a few miles northwest of Malta and belongs to the same archipelago. It’s just 26 square miles (roughly the size of Manhattan) and home to around 40,000 people.

I first visited Gozo in 2012 and have returned a handful of times since then. On my most recent trip this September, I stayed in a gorgeous little villa in Xagħra, a small, historic town with a population of about 5,400.

As much as I adore the Maltese island, my most recent trip there made me realize it might not be the perfect spot for me to retire.

Gozo has great Mediterranean vibes and feels ideal for slow exploring

Gozo seemed to have many of the same draws as Malta, but with slightly fewer crowds and a slower pace of life.

For one, English is widely spoken in both Malta and Gozo, which I appreciate. Gozo has lovely weather with about 300 days of sunshine a year and mostly mild temperatures.

The island really does feel Mediterranean, with limestone buildings, beautiful churches, and endless sea views.

It had a nice balance of rural beauty and bustling shops and eateries. People were friendly, the villages I’ve explored so far have all felt safe, and life seemed to move at an unhurried pace. The Visit Gozo website describes the island as “developed just enough but not too much,” which I think defines its charm.

There are many things to see and do in Gozo, but the island didn’t feel super aimed at tourists with a massive list of must-see attractions.

Gozo has world-class diving, swimming at Ramla Bay, and leisurely boat rides along the coastline. There’s also the ancient Ġgantija Temples and the Rotunda Church in Xewkija.

I loved exploring the Citadel in Victoria, and I spent happy days taking lovely long lunches, some with waterfront views.

While staying in my small villa in Xagħra, there was something idyllic about having so many restaurants and shops within walking distance and taking a five-minute stroll into the village square for groceries or dinner.

I was especially impressed by the small island’s impressive dining scene, which consists of well over 100 restaurants and dozens of snack bars and coffee shops.

I enjoyed alfresco dining, local wine and seafood, Gozitan cheese, Maltese specialties like rabbit, and a superb range of delicious pasta dishes.

On this past trip, I also attended the annual Fontana Wine Festival, where I got real community vibes. There were a handful of local wineries, live music, and a food truck. There were no pulsing crowds, no huge lines, and plenty of room to wander.

It felt intimate and local rather than a huge event aimed at tourists.

Sadly, I found there were some downsides …

Despite being a small island, it didn’t feel as easy to get around Gozo as I expected.

There aren’t sidewalks everywhere, so walking between villages isn’t always possible. There are buses, but I found they didn’t run very frequently — sometimes just once an hour in each direction. (Thankfully, ride-hailing services such as Bolt and Uber were relatively affordable.)

Then there were the bugs. Mosquitoes are to be expected in the Mediterranean, but the Asian tiger mosquito is especially aggressive and bites during the daytime as well as around dawn and dusk.

They’re very present in the Maltese islands, and insect repellent only went so far. I’d sometimes find five new bites a day.

I also found the relentless presence of Oriental hornets, a large native species that becomes particularly active in late summer and early autumn, to be off-putting. Their stings are notoriously painful.

When looking closer at long-term considerations, I also didn’t love that Gozo doesn’t have its own airport.

The nearest international airport is in Valletta, Malta’s capital, and can be reached by a 45-minute ferry that runs several times a day. However, this meant each time I wanted to fly, I’d need to take a taxi to a ferry terminal, then a ferry, then another taxi to the airport.

As someone who loves to travel and would need to fly home to visit family, I could see that becoming a frustrating hurdle and grind over time.

In addition, I enjoyed the two commercial centers and dozens of shops along the main streets in Gozo’s capital, Victoria. They sold just about all of the basics and essentials I could want, plus some lovely local handmade jewelry and ceramics.

However, if I were to live here for an extended period, I think I’d start to miss having access to more big-name retailers, high-end brands, and even luxury department stores, like Brown Thomas in Dublin.

Gozo may not be a perfect retirement spot for me, but I can see why it may be for others

I can genuinely understand why people would want to retire in Gozo. It’s gorgeous, and I could picture having a wonderful life there — however, it would come with trade-offs.

Although I sometimes fantasize about a slower-paced life, this trip also made me realize it might not suit me in reality. I worry the peace and quiet that makes it a perfect holiday destination would end up feeling limiting over time.

I personally need a bit more buzz and glamour day-to-day — lively bars, glitzy restaurants, and high-end shopping. Although Gozo has outstanding food, too, I love Dublin’s ever-evolving dining scene and its vibrant bars.

With all that in mind, I think I need to look into a larger European city next, definitely one with its own international airport.

I’d definitely return to Gozo for vacation, but not for forever. In the meantime, the search for my retirement location continues …