When I started actively hunting for a new role outside my home in London, I imagined I would move back to northern England, where I had grown up.
I’d lived and worked in London for 20 years. I first moved there after graduating, and quickly landed a job at a public-relations agency. I enjoyed everything the city had to offer: the live comedy scene and free museums, the Tube, and the summer evenings in beer gardens on the Thames.
However, my daily commute had long become a chore, and the prospects of buying my own place in the city were slim. I was looking for my next move when I was approached by a Malta-based company, seeking someone to head up a newly formed content team.
Although I had heard of Malta, I had never visited. Friends and family who had been there were divided in their opinions, but I figured I could always move back if I didn’t like it.
I said yes to the job and headed to Sliema, on Malta’s east coast, in November 2019.
Malta was more of a bustling hub than I expected, so I ended up looking elsewhere
Kerry Gaffney
I rented a sea-view apartment that was a short bus ride from my new office, and the next few months sped by as I found my footing and explored the island. I knew my neighborhood was popular with tourists, but because it was the offseason, it didn’t feel too chaotic at first.
Over the next 18 months, though — as COVID-19 restrictions were put in place, lifted, and reintroduced — I got on-and-off glimpses of just how busy Malta can get.
My daily walks along the Sliema Front, which were once virtually solitary, started to mean weaving past groups of tourists and dodging speeding e-scooters.
Fortunately, I was offered a remote-friendly role in May 2021. Still not knowing the country very well, I asked some new local friends about where they would choose to live. Quite a few suggested Gozo.
The second-largest island in the Maltese archipelago, Gozo is around 26 square miles and reachable only by ferry. It’s regarded as more rural and quieter, and some locals have told me it feels the way Malta did 20 to 30 years ago.
I’d never heard of Gozo before I moved to Malta, but I had made a few day trips there and loved its beauty and charm. It felt more like what I had in mind when I first thought about leaving London — so, I made the move.
The cultural scene on Gozo puts larger places to shame
Kerry Gaffney
With a population of about 40,000, Gozo is definitely smaller than London, one of the largest cities in Europe, and Malta, which is home to nearly 600,000 people.
However, I was surprised — in the best way possible — to learn that Gozo isn’t quiet.
The island might not have a thriving live comedy scene like London’s, but two opera houses each stage concerts, musicals, operas, and recitals throughout the year.
There are yearly film and theater festivals, a sizable St. Patrick’s Day celebration, and Carnival, Christmas, and Pride parades.
Numerous food festivals celebrate everything from citrus fruits to olive oil. Every year, each village hosts its traditional festa, a weeklong celebration of its patron saint that features marches, concerts, and multiple fireworks displays.
In London, I always felt like I had to spend money and make an effort to access most of the available culture. On Gozo, though, virtually everything is free, and basically on my doorstep.
The variety of events has made it easier to build friendships, too. There’s usually someone who would love to attend a concert or festival, and if not, I’m bound to bump into someone I know once I’m there.
However, island life has come with some adjustments
Of course, there are some downsides to living on such a small island, especially one that heavily relies on tourism.
The range of cuisines on Gozo and Malta is good, but not as broad as in London. I’ve also found that many restaurants take an extended break during the winter.
Not to mention, summer temperatures can climb above 90 degrees Fahrenheit; meanwhile, in London, sunny days are rarer, and 80-degree weather often signifies a heat wave.
It’s possible to shop online, but you can forget about next-day delivery, which means I think hard about whether I actually need something before ordering.
Worse, severe winter storms can cut the island off completely when the ferries stop running, so I keep a close eye on the weather forecast and stock up if I know a storm is coming.
Still, there’s more to do here than I ever could have expected. I moved here dreaming of quiet mornings with nothing louder than the local rooster, and I’ve gotten those, for sure. But I’ve also gotten the village festa season, two opera houses, and days full of adventures and stories.
